One of the greatest disappointments I get when exploring the world of beer is sitting down in a bar that makes a point of selling craft beer, but doesn’t train staff to know anything about it.
Let’s face it – only the most committed can keep track of everything that’s on tap these days, so when I have to ask a server what style a beer is, because brand names like “The Princess Wears Girl Pants” don’t explain anything (true story), I need a better response than “I don’t know, I don’t really like beer”.
While it should be obvious, I really believe that some proprietors of craft beer-serving establishments fail to realize how much of a buzzkill it can be to get a glass of grapefruit radler when what you really wanted was a crisp, biscuity lager, or to be recommended a pint of Flying Monkey’s Smashbomb Atomic IPA because you said you like to drink Alexander Keith’s.
I’ve actually sat down in bars where the prevailing attitude is that the well-known domestic beers that most of us feel comfortable with, aren’t actually welcome on tap because the emphasis is on the wild world of craft beer; meanwhile, nobody working understands anything about the beers and as a patron, you’re left trying to guess what might suit your palate or go well with your meal.
To me, it’s the sign of an immature business model. Kudos to the entrepreneurial who have put up the capital to start up an interesting craft beer bar, but after the beer fridge is fully stocked and the taps are installed, there needs to be an ongoing emphasis on the patron experience beyond indie music and recycled barnboards.
Enter the role of the Cicerone, the beer world’s answer to the Sommelier. The Cicerone program offers various degrees of certification for people working in the beer industry, ranging from the base level of Certified Beer Server to the highest echelon of Master Cicerone.
As a Master Cicerone, you’re considered a guru – more than qualified to send a beer back because you detect the faintest note of gym sock, and you’re likely seeking out a career in beer-consulting or looking to open your own establishment. But, even at the base level, the program certifies someone to have a basic knowledge of beer, that they can provide some guidance to a patron, or confirm whether a draught line is pouring with an obvious off-taste when someone sends a beer back.
In the state of Michigan, there are at least 120 breweries, plus countless spin-off tap-houses, bars, and restaurants serving up craft beer alongside great food and music.
This segment of Michigan’s service and hospitality sector has seen rapid growth and the bar for what constitutes an acceptable experience is constantly being raised; with so much competition, proprietors and publicans cannot afford to have patrons being put off by poor beer recommendations and staff who don’t understand what they’re serving.
In Charlevoix, Michigan, my wife and I once visited the Bridge Street Tap Room – a lively spot near the water serving elevated pub food and a diverse selection of over 30 Michigan craft beers. Taking a seat at the bar, one of the first things that caught my eye were Cicerone certifications of staff hanging on the wall.
It was impressive, and appreciated when I needed an explanation of what to expect from Jolly Pumpkin Brewing Co.’s Gotlansdricka – a smoked, sour style of beer called Sahti traditionally brewed in Finland. Could you imagine my surprise if that hadn’t been clearly explained to me and I had been expecting anything else when I took my first sip?
For somebody working in the service industry, particularly at an establishment offering a diverse selection of beer, one can become a Certified Beer Server by completing an online exam (possibly held at a testing centre) at a cost of about $70 US. From there, the required commitment and cost to test escalates based on the level of certification being sought. If you’re interested, full details are available at www.cicerone.org.
After all, how bad can it be to learn about beer?
Until next time!
Jason McLellan is a self-professed beer geek. He wants the world to know he's damn proud of his Northern Ontario roots, even though he couldn't catch a fish if one jumped in the boat. His columns run Wednesdays at 12:00 p.m. Find him on Facebook: Jason McLellan with the Beer Up North banner.
