Something I’ve been mulling over since I started writing Beer Up North is whether I should profile Northern Ontario beers.
On one hand, it easily fits into the context of this column and I think it would interest a lot of people to read about some our regional beers. On the other hand, I’m not exactly a Master Cicerone and part of the Beer Up North value system is to only promote the good things our brewers are doing, rather than criticize their work.
But, I think I can talk objectively about what I see, smell, and taste in a beer. Whether I like or dislike a beer doesn’t really matter because everyone has their own unique tastes. I remember visiting my mother not too long ago and she thoughtfully picked me up a couple of cans of Hollandia Super Strong. The Beer Store’s website fittingly describes Hollandia Super Strong as “A super strong golden lager beer imported from The Netherlands” — with 13 people having liked it on Facebook.
Going forward with no preconceived notions, I poured a glass and took a healthy sip, only to find the taste so offensive that it almost made me angry; it was like drinking a glass of corn syrup mixed with the juice of random weeds picked from the cracks in my driveway. My brother, on the other hand, quaffed it as though he had suddenly discovered all that had been missing in his life and effusively praised it. It just goes to show that every beer is going to have lovers and haters.
So, let’s give it a try and see what happens. After all, what better way to give me a sense of purpose when I walk into the LCBO or the Beer Store and agonize over what to purchase.
Bear Runner Blonde AleFor this week, we’re going to take a look at a flagship beer from a relatively new entrant into the Northern Ontario beer scene – Bear Runner Blonde Ale from New Ontario Brewing Co. in North Bay.
Before even cracking my first can of Bear Runner, my eye was immediately drawn to the art on the can. It’s a humorous play on the Northern Ontario identity and let’s people know where their beer comes from; it’s also pleasing to the eye. Admittedly, it took me a while to understand the name and reference to the “little-known (and completely fictitious) annual North Bay Running of the Bears” on the back of the can, but that wouldn’t be the first time a bit of cleverness has been lost on me. Eventually the image of the person running from the bear on the can clued me in to the play on Pamplona’s Running of the Bulls.
Moving on from the can’s artwork, the beer certainly pours a beautiful blonde colour and is softly carbonated, with a head that quickly fades away. In tasting, the most obvious characteristic is a faint backdrop of something a bit like butterscotch, possibly attributed to a compound called diacetyl, which can naturally result from the fermentation process.
The taste of diacetyl in beer can be undesirable in heavy amounts, but I think it can be appreciated in small doses, much like the (completely different) taste effects of Brettanomyces or Lactobacillus cultures in beer. In Bear Runner Blonde Ale, presuming it is diacetyl I taste, I actually find it quite pleasing, almost like having a little cream in my coffee; I also find it complements another subtle flavour in the beer that reminds me of the way malted grain smells when preparing the mash for a batch of homebrew.
I am also curious as to how the addition of wheat to the beer’s grain bill plays into my perception of the beer’s taste, as fermented wheat can contribute all sorts of interesting flavour compounds.
All in all, I think that New Ontario Brewing Co.’s Bear Runner Blonde Ale is a tasty treat and I think it pushes the boundaries of what a blonde ale can be. If you like really clean-tasting beers like American light-lagers, the more flavourful profile of this beer might jump out at you a bit; if you’re a hop-head, you won’t find much bitterness here. In any case, it’s a very approachable beer and perhaps a good one to check out if you’re looking to carefully broaden your beer horizons.
If you’re interested, it looks like it’s available at LCBOs from Thunder Bay to New Liskeard at the pleasing price of $2.85 per can. If you do try it, let me know what you think in the comments section below, being mindful of the hard work that goes into creating and brewing a beer, just in case it’s not your cup of tea.
Cheers!
Jason McLellan is a self-professed beer geek. He wants the world to know he's damn proud of his Northern Ontario roots, even though he couldn't catch a fish if one jumped in the boat. His columns run Wednesdays at 12:00 p.m. Find him on Facebook: Jason McLellan with the Beer Up North banner.
